1) Pick over the mussels, removing any beards.

2) Slice the onion.

3) Remove the root end and stalks from the fennel and save any feathery bits for garnish. Thinly slice the bulb.

4) Cut a cross in the bottom of each tomato and pour boiling water over them.

5) Let stand for a minute then slip off the skins and remove the cores.

6) Heat the olive oil and saut the onion, fennel and garlic over a gentle heat until tender.

7) Turn the heat up to medium and add the fennel seeds and chilli flakes. Cook for a minute then add the wine and stir for a further minute.

8) Add quartered tomatoes and the sugar, stir then cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

9) Check the seasoning and add salt and freshly ground pepper as necessary.

10) Add a handful of chopped basil.

11) Tip in the mussels, cover and steam for five minutes. The mussels are ready when the shells open. Discard any that remain closed.

12) Give the mussels a stir, sprinkle over the parsley (and chopped fennel fronds if using) and serve immediately in deep bowls with crusty bread.